Sunday, 4 September 2011
loft conversion. in each of the steels we are going to fix a length of timber, if the steel fabricator hasn't pre-drilled the steels, you must do this now with a mag-drill, a 14mm hole every 400mm centres. it's a good idea to mark out where your joists are positioned on the steel before you drill to avoid putting a hole where a joist will be. once the steels are drilled cut a timber to the required length, the timber should be slightly narrower than web of the steel and the same depth, for example if the internal measurement of the steel is 8" and the depth is 2" then you should use a 7x2 length of timber. place this timber into one of the floor steels clamp into position a mark out the drilled holes through the steel, then drill the timber with a 14mm bit. place the timber back into the steel and bolt together using M12 bolts, nuts and washers. repeat this process with the other floor steel.
we can now start installing the joists, if you haven't already done so mark out the position of the joists at 400mm centres. cut the first timber to the required length(the distance between the two steels) and fix either side using jiffy hangers and repeat with the remaining joists. remember to double up the joists where the stairs are going to be installed, and to treble up the joists under the dormer walls of our loft conversion. once the joists are in all that remains is the noggins cut and fix the noggins approximately every 1200mm, a good idea would to smear "grip-fill" on the joints where the noggin meets the joists, this will prevent any creaks on the floor. if you have any questions on this post, or need advise on a loft extension please send me an email.
Saturday, 3 September 2011
new loft conversion will require the installation of RSJs. generally 3 RSJs are required, 2 large steels to take the weight of new floor, and a smaller steel to support the ridge. these steels are normally installed prior to any timber framing. the process starts with openings being made in the brickwork where the steels are going to be fitted. in each of these openings a concrete pad stone needs to be cast just below where the steels are going to sit. the hardest part of installing the steels in a loft conversion is getting them into position, the smaller steel for the ridge is not normally a problem but the 2 floor steels can be tricky. if possible craning the steels in is the easiest option but this can be expensive and if the scaffold has a tin roof it will not be possible to use a crane. if a crane isn't viable then man power and a couple of block and tackle's might be the answer. once the steels are in place on top of the pad stones you need to brick them in to stop them moving. you can now start timber framing the loft extension.